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Architecture Cabanyal

Luis Navarro - 255

Luis Navarro – 255

Within this magical one square kilometer,  there are over 550 protected /listed  buildings. El Cabanyal is also on the Unesco and the World Monuments Fund List.

As you walk from street to street, it’s like exploring a living museum, a tribute to the  last 150 years of Spanish tile design.

Escalante - 225

Escalante – 225

On the facades  alone there are more than 200 different tile styles – all packed into a small simple grid system of streets running North to South and  parallel with the sea. Rarely do you see two houses the same.

Many houses run from street to street maximizing light and providing  an easterly breeze, especially welcome during the

hotter months. The architecture  itself is a  mix of traditional Barraque style homes, small single storey houses  built in the 1840’s , replacing the older Barraque  huts made of wood with thatched roofs .

Larger  Art Nouveau, Art Deco and  Modernista styles  were introduced between 1880s to the 1940’s  and  low rise blocks  built from the 1950’s

onwards

. Today El Cabanyal maintains much of  its original

village feel and many locals still see it as a separate part of the city. Everything is right

on their doorstep, so there’s really no need to venture into the rest of Valencia.

 

 

 

Stay-Cabanyal

Where to stay in El Cabanyal

Within the delightful fishermens’ houses  you’ll find stunning rental properties and airbnbs for a range of prices. It’s easy to book light, airy apartments with wonderful sea views from sunlit roof terraces. Rates span from £20 to £150 a night, depending on the size of the property.  So for a chance to stay in one of the neighbourhood’s beautiful old buildings this is the way to go – booking through www.airbnb.com or www.tripadvisor.com

 

Air BnB Terrace

Air BnB Terrace

Self-catering is a good option as there’s a good choice of bars and restaurants.  Or you can buy fantastic fresh produce in the market, making cooking a pleasure.

Along the Paseo de Neptune, a strip of seafront hotels offer accommodation for a range of budgets, from basic to luxurious.  All have bars and restaurants with glass-fronted terraces. Order a cold beer, a glass of Cava or a plate of paella and enjoy the breeze from the sea.

The Avenida del Puerto is a good alternative to the beach, sweeping right down to the harbour, with quieter streets and squares leading off this wide boulevard.

Lined with shops and cafes,  it’s particularly appealing at the port end where

Las Arenas

Las Arenas

This  swanky 5 star hotel sits in prime position on the seafront. Built in 1898 as a spa for the people of Valencia, it’s been restored, rebuilt and transformed into a luxury resort with two large swimming pools overlooking the sea. A gleaming cream monument,  Las Arenas has lush gardens, bright, tasteful and elegant rooms, some with wonderful sea views and the snazzy Sorolla restaurant.  An in-house spa, with indoor pool has an enticing range of treatments.

There’s no doubt this is the most upmarket seaside hotel in Valencia and it’s certainly impressive, if a little clinical.

 

Double rooms from £129

 


Urban Youth Hostel Hostel & Bar, Avenida del Puerto 280

Urban Youth Hostel

Urban Youth Hostel

 

Opened in October 2014, this vibrant, quirky hostel has a mix of dorms and private rooms .. Situated at on the Avenida del Puerto, it’s well located for the beach and the city centre.

The reception area is painted in bright colours with an arty theme and features a buzzing bar. The hostel also offers guests use of a terrace, a restaurant, a games room, a library and a shared kitchen so you can cook.

 


Hotel Marina Atarazanas, Plaza Tribunal de las

Aguas

 

 

This gleaming, inviting Hotel is situated in a quiet square, minutes from the port. It’s a good option for anyone wishing to be close to the sea but away from the seafront action.

Rooms are modern and stylish, there’s a rooftop sun terrace and seasonal pool, a restaurant and coffee shop with outdoor seating.

 

A Double or a twin room is around £50

 

 

 

 

 

 


Hotel Neptuno Valencia on Paseo de Neptuno

 

Neptuno

Neptuno

Right on the seafront, this is the most appealing of the seaside hotels – classy, simple in design and inviting. Its restaurant/bar has glass doors open to the sun and sea air  and serves renowned typical Valencian food as well as cocktails, wine and coffees.

Rooms are plain, smart and comfortable and there’s a rooftop terrace with a pool, where you can lounge and swim if you don’t feel like taking a dip in the Mediterranean, seconds away. It’s stylish, affordable and with its prime position on the Paseo, it’s extremely popular.

 

Double rooms from £80

 


Apartmentos Puerto de Valencia, Jose Aguirre, 36

 

These bright, airy, spacious and tasteful apartments make a great self-catering option, a few minutes walk from the beach and the port. Situated in an elegant period building, they are well equipped with washing machines, TV and wifi.

The loft penthouse sleeps two and the second apartment, complete with whirlpool tub,  sleeps four.

Sheets and towels are provided and both apartments have a sparkling, modern feel.

 

From £47 per night for the studio and £67 for the larger apartment

 

Book through Booking.com or be bold and turn up on the day ,ready to negotiate the best price.
This works well out of season but is not advisable in the height of summer.

 Hotel Balandret, 20  Paseo Neptuno 

This tasteful, stylish boutique hotel is the new highlight of Valencia’s seafront strip. Its 21 bedrooms feature tiles and marble in subtle shades to offset the Mediteranean warmth.

A reproduction

of La Balandrito – the little yacht – one of

Sorolla’s famous paintings, honours the famous Valencian artist and lights made from trumpets are a tribute to the city’s famous brass band culture. The airy restaurant with its outdoor sea view terrace serves Valencian mussels and calamares with curry sauce as well as traditional paella.

Double rooms from 90 euros

 

Creative Cabanyal

Creative Cabanyal

If you’re looking for art, theatre, museums  and music, you can enjoy a rich cultural experience within  the neighbourhood and its surrounds

 


Portes Obertes poster 2011

Portes Obertes poster 2011

Portes Obertes

 Cabanyal Open Doors

Every year thousands of visitors and residents get a chance to see inside some of El Cabanyal’s beautiful houses during the Portes Obertes. This diverse programme of events spans over two weeks and is a wonderful opportunity to discover these endlessly intriguing neighbourhood in more depth.

Portes Obertes -Cabanyal 2014

Portes Obertes – Cabanyal 2014

This is also a chance to learn more about the work of local artists,

as well as collections by famous Valencianos. There are tours, talks, theatre performances, films, concerts and exhibitions by Salvem El Cabanyal – who have done such an incredible job  of campaigning to save the area.
See www.cabanyal.com for up to date information.

 


Teatro de Marionetas

Teatro de Marionetas

La Estrella, Teatro de Marioneta

Calle dels Angel 33

 

This charming puppet theatre is famed throughout Valencia for its magical shows.  It’s a marvellous option if you’re travelling with children.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Dressanes Del Grau

Dressanes Del Grau

The Drassanes Del Grau

Plaza Juan Antonio Benliure

 

This spectacular spot on Plaza Juan Antonio Benliure was once used for ship-building and is now home to a series of exhibitions, many featuring work by local artists. It’s an enormous space and sadly can’t fulfill its tremendous potential because it lacks government funding.  It’s a worth a look for the architecture alone.

 

 

 

 

 


museo_de_la_semana_santa_marinera

The Semana Santa Museum

The Semana Santa Museum

Calle Rosario 3

 

This

fascinating free local museum on Calle Rosario is the home of the amazing statues you see being paraded around during Semana Santa celebrations.Each different association or Brotherhood has its own costume complete with pointy hats. If you’re there for Semana Santa or just want to know more about the Easter festival, this is a great place to explore.

 

 

 

 


Street Art

 

Just wandering around El Cabanyal is a visual treat, as apart from the wonderful array of tiles, you’ll see amazing street art. Escif has left his unique mark here as well as the compelling Are You Dead? stencil art.

 

 


Blasco Ibanez Museum

Blasco Ibanez Museum

Blasco Ibanez Museum

Paseo Maritimo

The former home of Valencia’s greatest writer is a gracious seafront villa, where paintings, photographs and memorabilia reveal something of his life story.

Sadly, it’s  the Avenida Blasco Ibanez which Valencia’s mayor, Rita Barbera controversially wants to extend, knocking down many precious El Cabanyal houses in the process. The famous writer loved the area and was revered by the local people, so hopefully this willful destruction will never happen in his name.

 

 


El Musical Cultural Centre Rosari

El Musical Cultural Centre Rosari

The Teatro el Musical

Plaça del Rosari, 3

 

In Plaza del Rosario this popular theatre with a lofty contemporary interior and an original façade is dominated by an impressive doorway.

Touring repertory companies offer lively performances here with a frequently changing programme.

 

 

 

 

 


Live Music

Everyone

loves Hay Nada Mejor que 27 Amigas, a well run club/bar on Calle de la Reina, which offers a diverse range of music nights and events. Most popular is the Sunday Jazzmingo, which starts at 7pm and is a mellow evening of live jazz in a relaxed but gently buzzing atmosphere.

La Peseta on Calle Cristo del Grao is also a fun and popular venue with regular live bands.

  You’ll find more music next door at the laidback vegetarian restaurant of Nehuen Tasca.

 


Las Naves

Las Naves

Las Naves

Carrer de Joan Verdeguer, 16
This brilliant arts space on Juan Verdeguer space offers a wealth of cultural opportunities. Courses, shows and regular exhibitions draw visitors and locals to what is proving to be a dynamic and innovative arts project. The library and the photographic

studio offer an invaluable local resource. Party nights and cultural weekends complete this dazzling project.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What to do in Cabanyal

What  to do in  Cabanyal

 

El Cabanyal Street Market

El Cabanyal Street Market Market

 

Shop in the Vibrant Street Market

Valencia’s biggest street market is a weekly Thursday event  in Cabanyal  and the highlight of the week for  locals. Hundreds of stalls line the streets as it hustles and bustles its way down the Calle Mediteranni and  Calle Escalante.

It’s an enthralling insight into local life and a brilliant place to find bargains. Many of the stalls sell household goods such as sheets and towels but there are good shoe stalls too and if you’ve been admiring the gypsies’ leopard print glamour, you’ll find the full wardrobe here from leggings upwards.

 

 

DSC_8541

El Cabanyal Street Market

 

Best of all though are the stalls selling mounds of second hand skirts, trousers, jumpers tops – mostly for one or two euros each. Some of the smarter dresses are on hangers but generally you’ll need to patiently rummage through.

If you’re feeling bold, head for the impromptu/illegal gypsy stalls in Plaza de la Cruz de Canyemelar. It’s a case  now you see them now you  don’t, as the local police move in swiftly to move the gyspy vendors along

 

 

 

DSC_8521

El Cabanyal Shop

 

 

Even if you don’t want to shop, the Thursday market is a brilliant opportunity to tap into the local colour and atmosphere. The cafes are in full swing, the brandies are on the table, the enormous bocadillos are being consumed with relish and everyone’s having a high old time.

 

 

 

 

 


The Walks

Rosari

Take a Guided Tour

 

 

Marga Aguitur is an excellent local guide who can lead you up and down the streets of Cabanal, explaining the history of the significant houses with plenty of background information and colour.

 

 

 

 

For more information see www.paseoandoporpobladosdelamar.blogspot.com

 


Valencia Bici

Valencia Bici

Cycle by the Sea

Valencia is the perfect city for cyclists and there’s nowhere better to get on your bike than along the seafront. The promenade stretches from the port area at one end to the more peaceful Playa de

Patacona at the other. You can even keep going with just a tiny inland diversion for a few minutes before reaching Alboraya, where there’s a pretty and colourful marina overlooked by lovely holiday and residential apartments.

Sign up for the valenciabisi scheme(www.valenciabisi.es) and to cycle very cheaply providing you do it in half hour stints. You’ll pay an initial fee of 22 euros and if you go over the limit, you pay a few euros more. There are plenty of bike stations along the way

where you can drop off your bicycle and then stop for a swim or a coffee.

 


Mercado El Cabanyal

Valencianos know that this lively indoor market is the best place to buy fish in the city. Two aisles of stalls sell beautifully displayed pescado.  Stall holders will lovingly clean and prepare it for you. It’s more expensive than in the supermarkets (which generally have a fantastic fish counter) but tastes better and fresher.

You’ll also find wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables artfully arranged in a way that makes you stop and stare.  Entire stalls  are dedicated to ham and cheese,  olives and pickles and slightly scary-looking dried fish.

Chickens complete with beaks and feet compete with rabbits galore and plenty of pigs. Don’t be surprised to see an entire head looking at you through the glass cabinet.

In other words, this is a place to buy real food from real people, who are friendly and helpful. If you can speak Spanish, it helps, but if not, you’ll get by with pointing and smiling.

 


Learn Spanish

 

Learning a language by the sea is very appealing and is great way of enriching your holiday experience.  Solea Language School on Eugenia Vines is opposite the seafront and offers excellent private tuition or small group classes in a warm, friendly atmosphere with additional activities

also on offer. Take a tour of the market, try a wine-tasting or go to see a film, learning Spanish while you have fun.

 

www.soleaspanishschool.com
info@soleaspanishschool.com

 

Ride an Electric Chopper

C/Dr Juan Jose Domine, 6 

Electric chopper 01


See Valencia at a different speed by hiring an amazing electric bike. Mariano (right) and David can customise this sleek and exciting vehicles from 2,000 euros

or just hire one for 10 euros an hour.  This faster, fun way to explore is new to the city and if you’re not happy to go it alone,  take a guided tour around town or as far away as the beach at El Saler.

 

La Lonja de Pescado

 

If you want to buy cheap fish, straight out of the Mediterranean, walk along the harbour, past the beautiful Tinglados buildings and to the small port area.

The strong fishy smell lures you in to a busy market place where fishermen who look as if they’ve been at sea for days are allowed to sell 20 per cent of their catch to the general public. Just peering into the containers is fascinating. You’ll see octopus and eels still wriggling, gigantic sea bass look-a-likes and huge prawns.

The sale takes place each weekday from 4-5pm and if you go near the end, you can often pick up a big bagful of fish for around five euros. Don’t expect the fishermen to gut and clean them but they will share a few cooking tips if pressed.

 

La Lonja

La Lonja

 

 

Away Days from Cabanyal

Away Days from Cabanyal

 

If you feel like a change from the beach and the barrio, there are plenty of places to visit on a day trip. Use the Metro, the bus or the train, walk or cycle. Getting around is easy and affordable.

 


Into the City Centre

 

A 15 minute Metro ride on line 5 from Maritim Serreria will take you into the centre of Valencia.

 

Mercado Colon in centre

Mercado Colon in centre

Get off at Colon,  one of Valencia’s main shopping streets. Or Xativa for the Estacion del Norte, an ornate Art Nouveau gem and one of the most beautiful stations in the world.

From here it’s a five minute walk to the Plaza del Ajuntamiento with its magnificent Post Office and grand town hall. Take a walk around the  nearby Mercado Central to explore its amazing selection of food stalls and admire its stunning domed roof.

Post office dome in centre

Post office dome in centre

Continue into Plaza de La Reina to see La Seu, the splendid Gothic cathedral. Walk up the side of this 13 century wonder until you reach another gracious square, the Plaza de la Virgin.  With its fountains, statues and beautiful Basilica, this is the most elegant plaza of them all.

El Rastro

El Rastro

El Rastro

El Rastro

 

If you’re exploring on a Sunday, take the metro to Aragon which is minutes from the fascinating flea market, known as El  Rastro, home to hundreds of stalls selling everything from furniture to postcards. Name your price and be prepared to barter with the  generally good humoured traders.

 

 

 


Albufera

Albufera

On the Paella Trail

Take the bus from outside El Saler shopping

centre opposite the Ciudad des Artes y Ciencas to El Palmar, the birthplace of paella.

This small town is a shrine to rice recipes and sits at the southern limit of the freshwater lagoon of

La Albufera, 10 kms from Valencia. Rice is cultivated, harvested and cooked here and it’s also a famous bird sanctuary.

El Palmar

El Palmar

Take a boat trip on a barquet – a Valencian flat-bottomed boat – visit the Raco de l’Olla Visitors Centre, for a spot of birdwatching.
Eat lunch at one of the 25 paella restaurants.
Most are run by fishermen whose catch includes eels from La Albufera.
El Palmar is also a good place to try Ali y Pebre, the traditional eel and pepper steak.

 

 

 

 


El Saler beach

El Saler beach

Find a

Wilder Beach

If you’re looking for a wilder beach than Las Arenas take a bus to El Saler, a few kilometres out of the city.  They run regularly (less in winter) and stop outside the El Saler shopping centre. The journey time is around 20 minutes.

You can also cycle there quite easily along dedicated paths, the last stretch being alongside dunes and pine forests.

There’s a clutch of bars and restaurants in the town of El Saler or you can pick up a  picnic and settle in for a day of sun and swimming in the clear Mediterranean.

 

 

 


 

Castillo de Sagunto

Castillo de Sagunto

Visit an Historic Town

 

 

A half hour train ride from Valencia Cabanyal station will take you to Sagunto, a  lovely hilltop fortress town with

amazing panoramic views.

Explore the Roman theatre, home to a three week open air arts festival each August, as well as a former Jewish quarter.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Benicassim

Benicassim

Take a Trip to a Festival City

 

Catch the train to the seaside town of Benicassim. from Valencia Cabanyal station. It’s a two hour journey but worth it to see the home of the famous music festival, which takes place in July.

No matter when you visit though, this is a delightful excursion to a classy resort.  You’ll find stunning, sandy beaches, good swimming and a trail of splendid art deco villas along the seafront.

Shops, bars and seafood restaurants will keep you busy until it’s time to take the train home.