Tag Archive for 13th Century

Away Days from Cabanyal

Away Days from Cabanyal

 

If you feel like a change from the beach and the barrio, there are plenty of places to visit on a day trip. Use the Metro, the bus or the train, walk or cycle. Getting around is easy and affordable.

 


Into the City Centre

 

A 15 minute Metro ride on line 5 from Maritim Serreria will take you into the centre of Valencia.

 

Mercado Colon in centre

Mercado Colon in centre

Get off at Colon,  one of Valencia’s main shopping streets. Or Xativa for the Estacion del Norte, an ornate Art Nouveau gem and one of the most beautiful stations in the world.

From here it’s a five minute walk to the Plaza del Ajuntamiento with its magnificent Post Office and grand town hall. Take a walk around the  nearby Mercado Central to explore its amazing selection of food stalls and admire its stunning domed roof.

Post office dome in centre

Post office dome in centre

Continue into Plaza de La Reina to see La Seu, the splendid Gothic cathedral. Walk up the side of this 13 century wonder until you reach another gracious square, the Plaza de la Virgin.  With its fountains, statues and beautiful Basilica, this is the most elegant plaza of them all.

El Rastro

El Rastro

El Rastro

El Rastro

 

If you’re exploring on a Sunday, take the metro to Aragon which is minutes from the fascinating flea market, known as El  Rastro, home to hundreds of stalls selling everything from furniture to postcards. Name your price and be prepared to barter with the  generally good humoured traders.

 

 

 


Albufera

Albufera

On the Paella Trail

Take the bus from outside El Saler shopping

centre opposite the Ciudad des Artes y Ciencas to El Palmar, the birthplace of paella.

This small town is a shrine to rice recipes and sits at the southern limit of the freshwater lagoon of

La Albufera, 10 kms from Valencia. Rice is cultivated, harvested and cooked here and it’s also a famous bird sanctuary.

El Palmar

El Palmar

Take a boat trip on a barquet – a Valencian flat-bottomed boat – visit the Raco de l’Olla Visitors Centre, for a spot of birdwatching.
Eat lunch at one of the 25 paella restaurants.
Most are run by fishermen whose catch includes eels from La Albufera.
El Palmar is also a good place to try Ali y Pebre, the traditional eel and pepper steak.

 

 

 

 


El Saler beach

El Saler beach

Find a

Wilder Beach

If you’re looking for a wilder beach than Las Arenas take a bus to El Saler, a few kilometres out of the city.  They run regularly (less in winter) and stop outside the El Saler shopping centre. The journey time is around 20 minutes.

You can also cycle there quite easily along dedicated paths, the last stretch being alongside dunes and pine forests.

There’s a clutch of bars and restaurants in the town of El Saler or you can pick up a  picnic and settle in for a day of sun and swimming in the clear Mediterranean.

 

 

 


 

Castillo de Sagunto

Castillo de Sagunto

Visit an Historic Town

 

 

A half hour train ride from Valencia Cabanyal station will take you to Sagunto, a  lovely hilltop fortress town with

amazing panoramic views.

Explore the Roman theatre, home to a three week open air arts festival each August, as well as a former Jewish quarter.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Benicassim

Benicassim

Take a Trip to a Festival City

 

Catch the train to the seaside town of Benicassim. from Valencia Cabanyal station. It’s a two hour journey but worth it to see the home of the famous music festival, which takes place in July.

No matter when you visit though, this is a delightful excursion to a classy resort.  You’ll find stunning, sandy beaches, good swimming and a trail of splendid art deco villas along the seafront.

Shops, bars and seafood restaurants will keep you busy until it’s time to take the train home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

History of Cabanyal

The History of El Cabanyal

The history of El  Cabanyal spans 700 years, but has never been at a more crucial stage. In May 2015, Joan Ribo was elected Mayor of Valencia and pledged to revive the fortunes of this often blighted neighbourhood. To the delight of the long suffering local people funds are being raised and invested to restore and rejuvenate the beautiful streets and houses. Personal as well as public projects have now begun to make El Cabanyal into one of the highlights of the city and into a better place to live for its inhabitants.

In 1997, the Mayor of Valencia, Rita Barbera embarked on a personal crusade to destroy the area, by carving it up with a four lane avenue running from the city centre.

Could you imagine this happening in Covent Garden or Greenwich Village? No…of course not.  Such a destructive plan would be inconceivable. Here in El Cabanyal, however, were it not for the bravery of the local residents, who for generations have done everything in their power to stop the Mayor in her tracks, this important historic quarter would be largely rubble. No wonder that so many eyes are focused on it,  from Unesco to the World Monument Fund.

 

Bulldozer coming into Cabanyal -2010

Bulldozer coming into Cabanyal -2010

 

 

Beautiful historical houses have already been lost forever.
The local government has bought over 500 properties

through extortion and low level thuggery, of which 125 have been knocked down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a crime against history.
Where once there were houses, now there are Rita’s scars and stripes  –  plots that have been walled up and painted with ugly bands of brown and fawn.

 

 

 

Cabanyal demolition in 2010

Cabanyal demolition in 2010

 

 

 

 

Some of the demolished houses don’t even form a part of her grand plan for the extension of the Avenida Blasco Ibanez and were destroyed pointlessly.

Vicente Blasco Ibanez, the great writer, political activist and staunch Republican would turn in his  grave if he

knew that an avenue named after him would rip

apart the neighbourhood  that he loved so much.

 

 

 

 

Cabanyal - circa 1940

Cabanyal – circa 1940

El Cabanyal has always had its problems, from the  devastating fires of  1796 and 1875  to the cholera  epidemic in  the 1860’s,  from the Spanish Civil War to the major floods of 1957 .

Added to this, over the last 50 odd years it has been totally neglected by the Valencian government.

Even if residents want to reform their homes, Rita Barbera has denied them planning permission.  Despite all these obstacles Cabanyal survives and appears to thrive.

 

 

 

The neighbourhood of El Cabanyal  and the  surrounding Maritim  villages date back to the 13th century when they formed an independent municipality separate from the  walled  city.

 

Calle San Pedro engraving

Calle San Pedro engraving

1883 map of Pueblo Nuevo Del Mar

1883 map of Pueblo Nuevo Del Mar

 

 

 

 

The first depiction of the area was provided by Flemish painter Anton van den Wyngaerde in 1563, and  in the early 1600’s , Valenciano historian Juan Gaspar Escolano recorded that  Cabanyal  comprised of just 40 huts and fishing shacks.

 

 

By the 1700’s Cabanyal and its neighbourhoods of Canyelamar Capa de Franca and Grao became part of the city of Valencia. Known as the Pueblo Nuevo del

Mar .  Grao as the port area began to flourish through world trade.

The neighbourhoods were divided not only by class of people but by the  small tributraries / streams that ran from the sea towards the city  running east to west. Meanwhile the houses were built on a grid system  of streets running  north to south.

 

Fishermen

Fishermen

Cabanyal fisherman - circa 1910

Cabanyal fisherman – circa 1910

 

 

 

Cabanyal was mainly populated by local fisherman and boat owners. Canyemelar next to the port of El Grao was home to the  wealthier classes and boat captains  and Capa de Franca was also a quarter for local fisherman as well as a small community of Gypsies.

 

 

 

 

The population lived in humble barraques, small one-storey houses built of wood with a thatched roof.  Remnants of this style of  house  can still be seen today, dotted along the original  streets of  Escalante, Luis Navarro and Baracca.

Mediterráni 1888

Mediterráni 1888

CChildren in Calle Hombres de la mar - Circa 1950 © Robert Frank

Children in Calle Hombres de la mar – Circa 1950 © Robert Frank

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By the late 1800’s the population of Cabanyal and Canyamelar  grew to around 10,000 inhabitants of which 70% of the population were still living in the old style barraques

The first great fire of 1796 wiped out over 250 of these barraques and a decree by the local government promoted the building of stone houses. The second fire of  1875 devastated more barraques and a fully blown ban was put in place of rebuilding this style of house

 

Farmacia

Farmacia What came from this  were the  new beginnings of the glory period  in the history of  Cabanyal .

For the next 50 years ,from the 1880’s to the 1930’s,  Cabanyal , was transformed, not only by the local people but by inner city dwellers from Madrid and Valencia itself.

The more wealthy incomers built bigger, grander, taller houses , some three and four stories high. It became common for local fishermen, gypsies and port workers to live next door to wealthy metropolitan types,

Between 1880 and 1940, the new Cabanyal exploded with colour and hundreds of  houses were built , inspired by  the movements of the era  – the popular Modernista/Art Nouveau  style ,  with hints  of Art Deco and Arts and Crafts . The beautiful tiling of the facades  of many of these houses were inspired by the light and the colour of the sea.

 

More streets were built including the grand Calle de la Reina, far wider and lined with larger and more substantial houses.  Apartment blocks sprung up too around the original  old streets of Barraca, Progreso, Luis Navarro and Jose Benlliure.

Throughout the decades from the 1950’s to the 1990’s Cabanyal and its surrounds were  blighted by  a boom in  the construction of  bland  non descript tower blocks . These provided homes,  were never more than seven stories high  and were complementary to the style of the older houses. Nothing could match the beauty of the original homes, however.

DSC_7500 (1)

Fortunately there are still hundreds of  these left in Cabanyal, and  it retains a charming local neighbourhood character. Many streets are in desperate need of repair and in theory the local urban planning proposals to rejuvenate the area could provide the perfect solution, if only the funding was available.

Local residents are only too aware that even in the last 15 years the area has  been  degraded. If the money spent on buying houses for destruction could have been used to restore them, El Cabanyal would be far more of a tourist lure, bringing visitors and revenue.

El Cabanyal and the Poblats Maritim could become a living museum to the past 150 years of Spanish architecture and tiling  and a credit to the city of Valencia.

 

The future is looking bright for this beautiful Spanish barrio. Artists  and students needing spaces with cheap rent  are moving in  and over the last few years there has been an influx of foreigners from England, Germany,  France  and Switzerland .

And who can blame these incomers from Northern Europe?  You can buy an apartment in El Cabanyal for 30,000 Euros  and an amazing house, ripe for conversion for 100,00 euros.  The neighbourhood is a mere  five minutes from the wonders of the beach, yet is part of a city full of history and culture, bathed in sunshine and brimming with life and character. Who could ask for more?